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The World’s Best Caviar Doesn’t Come From Russia Anymore

Though no one wants to say it, China is producing some of the most delectable fish eggs available.
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Photographer: Ted Cavanaugh for Bloomberg Businessweek

Mention China alongside almost any food product, and people get nervous. After international incidents involving bleach-soaked meat, antifreeze-laced apple juice, and pine nuts “unfit for human consumption,” the country “is known for tainted food because of repeated quality-control scandals,” says Shaun Rein, managing director for the China Market Research Group.

Kaluga Queen, which produces its caviar about 300 miles southwest of Shanghai, is mindful of these associations.