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What Chefs Want You to Know About Your Fish

Restaurants are taking on sustainable seafood. Here’s the state of play in the kitchen and the ocean.
Large lobster tail served with white wine
Photographer: Alina555 via Getty Images

Chef Telepan wants to make porgy happen. 

Porgy swim along the U.S. coast in large numbers, blissfully unknown to many American diners, while shrimp, tuna and salmon, often from thousands of miles away, remain the big kahunas. But as chefs, who long ago made farm-to-table food ubiquitous, set their sights on the oceans, the lowly porgy is getting some time in the sun.