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Golden Visas and a Changing Lisbon

Combined with a thriving tourism industry, the popular residence program has been mixed bag for historic neighborhoods across Portugal’s capital.
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Francisco Seco/AP

Summer in Lisbon means snails. In restaurants around the city, revelers armed with toothpicks tear through mounds of molluscs, washed down with a few glasses of beer.

One spring day a few years ago, in a restaurant in Graça, an old neighborhood of crooked streets and charmingly dilapidated houses, something was awry. The garlicky sauce that brings out the best in the snails was overloaded with pepper, making it nearly inedible. An unpretentious place up to now, the waiters had suddenly started taking orders on iPads.