It Is Men’s Fashion Month: What You Need to Know
Approximately 19 weeks ago I arrived back stateside from an epic, whirlwind journey—having blitzed my way through four European fashion capitals in a nearly 20-day circuit of fashion runways, presentations, and events. By now, the clothes I saw and reported on during that trip in January are for sale at your favorite designer stores and in department stores and online retail destinations—and thus, the evolution of the fashion industry. Which means, it’s time to do it again.
I write this now from my hotel room in Covent Garden, London. (In my dressing gown—watching Bloomberg TV, natch.) Starting today, 77 designers will be showing their spring/summer 2016 men’s collections as part of the seventh biannual showcase dubbed London Collections Men—which also adds a fourth day to its ever-growing show calendar. After London, I head south to Florence for the tradeshow Pitti Uomo, followed by Milan Fashion Week, and the sartorial circus concludes in the French capital with Paris Fashion Week.
So check in here daily for my style musings from the road, including slide shows, reviews, and such from my team of influencers, such as associate market editor Moti Ankari (aka @themetroman) and photo editor Jeremy Allen. Plus, reach out to the Bloomberg Pursuits team on Twitter (@luxury) and Instagram (@BloombergPursuits) or at my personal accounts for both: @nixcruz.
Now I have a show to make (Topman Design kicks it all off), but more of what coverage we have planned and what I am excited about, below.
June 12-15: London Collections Mens
Collections of Note: The most exciting shows of this weekend include Burberry, Tom Ford, Belstaff and Dunhill—plus such Saville Row tailors as Turnbull & Asser and Hardy Amies. There's also a new elephant in the room: Tommy Hilfiger, who will be holding a presentation for the first time—before taking the show and collection back to New York to be part of New York's first standalone men's fashion week in mid-July. Emerging talent to watch (since a third of the schedule is made up of brands less than five years old) include the popular Craig Green, Berthold (not new, but newly showing), and the debut of designer Henry Holland of House of Holland's first menswear effort, which will be shown June 14 and will hit the shop floor at Selfridges the same day.
Party Notes: On Thursday, British actor Idris Elba unofficially kicked things off with a party and the launch of his Idris Elba + Superdry collaboration at its Regent Street store (the 200-plus piece collection will hit stores in November). Also, Dsquared2 continues to celebrate its 20th anniversary with a sure-to-be starstudded party at Canada House on Saturday, June 13.
Also: Burberry expands into English culinary delights with the opening of Thomas's, an all-day cafè, at its Regent Street flagship store. (Editor's note: Expect to see an Instagram of its delicious lobster and chips and classically British cocktails on @nixcruz. It is Pimm's season, afterall.)
June 16-19: Pitti Uomo
Collections of Note: Moschino is this season's guest spotlight designer, which means that it's going to have a big presentation. I expect some controversially awesome runway happenings from creative director Jeremy Scott, and perhaps a Katy Perry sighting—being that she was just named the face of the brand. British tailoring brand Kilgour, under creative director Carlo Brandelli, is also expected to unveil a new fashion project at the fair. Plus, I'm excited to see the rebranding (and debut of footwear) of accessories brand Ben Minkoff, which will now carry the label Uri Minkoff, named after the chief executive officer and co-founder.
Party Notes: The Medici's Villa la Petraia, on the outskirts of Florence, is the location of this season's Brunello Cucinelli party. This is usually the opening night dinner of the menswear trade expo, and it's the first night when you'll see an endless stream of Italian men in flashy, tailored outfits. That peacock parade continues for a few weeks around Florence, specifically along the famed walls of the Fortezza de Basso. If you see pictures of it on Instagram, you'll no doubt spot a lot of bare ankles and T-shirt tailoring. Back to parties: Leather specialists Ghurka is celebrating its 40th anniversary with a dinner at Firenze's historical Harry's Bar.
June 19-23: Milan Fashion Week
Designers of Note: It will be interesting to see what Alessandro Michele does for his second collection, and his first for spring/summer, as creative director at Gucci (he famously stepped in last season for the departing Frida Gianni just weeks before show time, to mixed reviews). Italian brand Pal Zileri will be showing its first runway show in, well, ever, under new creative director Mauro Ravizza Krieger (who is noticeably refreshing and enhancing the design of the traditional Italian label). Brioni will be celebrating its 70th anniversary. But the highlight of the Milan schedule may be the presence of Ralph Lauren. The notoriously absent-from-the-mens-fashion-calendar design icon will be holding a menswear presentation for the first time in more than a decade for his high-end Purple Label (then, like Hilfiger, he will be supporting New York's menswear week with a showing of his more casual Polo Ralph Lauren label).
June 24-28: Paris Fashion Week
Designers of Note: Kim Jones's design-directed Louis Vuitton and Hermès are always standout shows. But personal favorites I hope will continue to seduce the fashion crowds include AMI, Dries Van Noten, Berluti, and the little (not really) Parisian brand-that-could, Maison Kitsuné—which just opened its biggest boutique yet last month in the Upper Marais.
Party Notes: Italian style icon Lapo Elkann will be introducing and celebrating his timepiece collaboration, the Big Bang Unico Italia Independent, with watchmaker Hublot over cocktails at Monsier Bleu in the new wing of Palais de Tokyo.