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Restaurant Reviews

Little Park Review: Where to Get Your Freekeh On

Andrew Carmellini’s latest hot spot, at the Smyth Hotel, is big on vegetables
relates to Little Park Review: Where to Get Your Freekeh On
Photographer: Evan Sung/Bloomberg Business

Beets and goat cheese go together like a yawn and an afternoon nap. They’re a gorgeous little snooze. If, like me, you’d forgotten why the duo earned their it-couple status in the first place, so many decades ago, you might want to consider the risotto at Andrew Carmellini’s latest restaurant in Tribeca, Little Park.

The dish is stained neon purple with beets, and it’s creamy with a fresh, tangy goat cheese ($16). The grains are cooked so they’re quite loose and tender, but still somewhat self-possessed, ever-so-slightly chewy. All this makes you want to take it in slowly, like a fine scoop of ice cream, so its mellow flavors can expand softly in your mouth. Scattered with poppy seeds and petals of raw beet, the dish makes a pretty airtight case for why beets and goat cheese really do belong together, forever. Order it.