Photographer: Peter Elliot/Bloomberg Business
Food

If You Like Barbuto in NYC, Then You’ll Love Little Prince

In which simple cuisine makes a comeback

Simplicity as a food style still has an uphill battle in a world where many diners expect rarefied cuisine for their money. In 1984, Jonathan Waxman opened Jams, exporting casual Californian style to New York and then London. Ten years ago he opened Barbuto in the then-forlorn West Village and captured the zeitgeist again. People have been licking their fingers unapologetically ever since. Restaurants like Balthazar, Little Prince, and others that practice sophisticated simplicity owe a debt of gratitude to Waxman. The best news for simple cuisine? Jams will make a comeback this spring in New York at Barry Sternlicht’s 1 Hotel Central Park, and Waxman has already helped restore the glory of Southern food with his newly opened Adele’s in Nashville.

IF: Barbuto

Address: 775 Washington St., West Village, NYC
Setting: Industrial, open-plan chic
Food: Jams 2.0 via Italy
Bar Scene: Great for eating and wine
Noise Level: Cacophonous and fun
Date Factor: If he/she isn’t soft-spoken
Groups: Two of the best private tables in New York and easy for small groups
Secrets: Do you want to see where Hollywood really does deals? This is the place for starlet (and producer) sightings.

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New York’s best chicken: Jonathan Waxman’s $19 legend at Barbuto

Photographer: Peter Elliot/Bloomberg Business

 

THEN:

Little Prince (New York): The latest inheritor of bistro chic. Bloomberg clients love it for its French onion soup burger, the quinoa salad, and its lack of pretension. Its location on the far western edge of SoHo makes it equidistant to almost everywhere in the city.

The Red Cat (New York): I love the slang “moreish”—to want more. This Chelsea staple headed by Jimmy Bradley has a new chef, a new pastry chef, and a new menu.  

Al di La (Brooklyn): Consistently at the top of lists for New Yorkers wanting to cross the river to Brooklyn. Portuguese-influenced comfort food reaches its coziest peak right here. Eat the bacalao and the braised rabbit, and don’t skimp on dessert. Try its twin next door, Al di Là Vino.

Casse-Croûte (London): Classic French. It wins on value for money and an authentic experience. It’s also open morning through night. Start the day with a pain au chocolat.

Bocca di Lupo (London): This Italian brasserie is to London what Barbuto is to New York. Just the right edge of chic, just the right edge of crowded, just the right edge of fun.

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New York’s best hamburger: “The French Onion” at Little Prince

Photographer: Peter Elliot/Bloomberg Business

This article originally appeared in the March 2015 edition of Reserve, a Bloomberg Brief publication. Click here for the full issue and to request a subscription invitation.

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