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Red Eggs and Ham: Holiday Dining in New York

When giving culinary advice for the holidays, I like to take a page not from Zagat or Michelin, but rather from the script of “Ronin,” John Frankenheimer’s spy-thriller set during Christmastime in France.

“You go to what you know,” says Sam, an ex-CIA officer played by Robert De Niro. So when my buddies seek out restaurants for Thanksgiving, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa -- whatever -- that’s exactly what I tell them. Go to what you know.