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Pay $1,000 for Saison's Perfect Meal, Walk Away Happy (and Hungry)

Raspberry marshmallow ice cream with lemon curd, mint and basil at Saison in San Francisco
Raspberry marshmallow ice cream with lemon curd, mint and basil at Saison in San FranciscoPhotograph by Ryan Sutton/Bloomberg

“Did you have enough to eat?”

That’s what chef Joshua Skenes asked at the end of a three-hour meal at Saison in San Francisco, one of America’s finest and most expensive restaurants. I didn’t have enough, though perhaps the chef’s question was rhetorical, as I’d already finished dessert and paid my bill for the 17-plus-course meal, in which there were no choices.