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China's Fine Wine Counteroffensive

As its wine culture comes of age, China’s garish faux French estates have incited a native counteroffensive
China is the world’s top Bordeaux importer, but mainland vintners are springing up fast
China is the world’s top Bordeaux importer, but mainland vintners are springing up fastIllustration by Tracy Ma

On the outskirts of Yinchuan, a sleepy provincial capital near the Gobi Desert, workers put the finishing touches on Château Changyu Moser XV, a vast building with white stone walls and black-tiled mansard and domed roofs. If it weren’t for the cast-metal statues of Chinese lions guarding the main gate, it could pass as a classical château found in the cradle of France’s Loire Valley. When it opens soon, the 150-acre estate will serve as local headquarters for Changyu Pioneer Wine, a Chinese vintner that already has ersatz châteaux in other parts of China. This summer the company announced plans to spend $950 million on a “wine city” in eastern China’s Shandong province, complete with two châteaux and a European-style village.

A marble Dionysius greets guests at the Dynasty Château in Tianjin, northern China, completed in 2010
Photograph by Xinhua/Eyevine/Redux