Bad Label, Good Wine

B&G's Bistro Wine Chardonnay sells for only $9 a bottle but tastes like it costs a lot more. Just try to overlook the label

I normally avoid wines with hokey labels or overly cute names—it seems like a sure invitation to hangover. But, in spite of violating both of these conditions, Bistro Wine Chardonnay is a surprisingly good wine. The offending label in question depicts two beret-adorned Frenchmen imbibing in front of a café. At least, thank goodness, one of them doesn't have a baguette or any other seemingly unavoidable French cliché, clutched under his arm. But try to ignore it. This offering comes from an organization, Barton & Gustier (B&G), that enjoys a long and well-deserved reputation for producing very decent value wines.

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