Perdrix Perfection

Frederick Wildman & Sons, the New York-based wine importer and distributor, represents a veritable cornucopia of mainly small, top-rate Burgundy producers, and every February it brings over a group of these convivial farmers—I call them farmers because there is nothing snooty or aristocratic about them other than the quality of their superb wines—for a tour of the U.S. to promote their current releases.

This year they held their New York dinner at the excellent A Voce restaurant, and the usual stars of their portfolio—Potel-Aviron, Château de Chorey, Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Christian Moreau, Château Fuissé and Château de la Maltroye—all excelled despite 2006 being a so-so vintage. The wine that stood out for me, however, was the Domaine des Perdrix Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru Aux Perdrix 2006, which retails for around $85. Pinot Noir is such a tricky grape to get right, especially in the unpredictable climate of Burgundy, but when a producer—especially a small producer who can concentrate on a limited number of wines—succeeds, the results are astounding.

Domaine des Perdrix is run by Bertrand and Christine Devillard. She has been brought up in the business, so to speak, as her father is the Marquis de Jouennes, owner of the Château de Chamirey in Mercurey. The couple's grapes are grown on 30 hectares across a number of appellations in the Côte de Nuits, including a large parcel of the legendary Grand Cru Echezeaux.

The nose on the Aux Perdrix explodes with dark cherries and blackberries. It shows great power and finesse, along with a sharp focus and supreme balance. There are even hints of cocoa on the palate, and these are sure to increase with time. Ah yes, time—that's the secret of this wine; in 10 or 15 years, this will be quite superb.

To find this wine near you try

When to Drink: For the next 20 years

Breathing/Decanting: Essential

Food Pairing: Game, hard cheese, roasts, and especially duck.

Grapes: 100% pinot noir

Appellation: Nuits-St.-Georges

Region: Burgundy

Country: France

Price: $85

Availability: Very limited

Web Site:

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