Made By Lefties, Enjoyable By Anyone

By Robert Parker

"Mollydooker" is the Aussie term for lefty, and it's an apt name for the wines produced in South Australia by the husband-and-wife team of Sparky and Sara Marquis. They're both southpaws, as are most of their staff. While the winery's name and labels are playful, what's in the bottle is serious: finely crafted, superconcentrated wines. Count these cuvées among the so-called Australian fruit bombs, wines often reviled by elitist, Eurocentric oenophiles simply because they taste too good too soon.

2006 The Violinist

92 points. This gorgeous, dry, full-bodied white (100% verdelho; 1,300 cases produced) was fermented and aged in both new and old French and American oak, then bottled early. It boasts notes of honeyed melons and other tropical fruits, beeswax, and crisp citrus, along with good underlying acidity, an explosively rich mid-palate, and a fresh, creamy texture and finish. Enjoy it during its first year. $15

2005 The Boxer

95 points. This shiraz cuvée exhibits a black/blue/purple color, an incredible density of fruit, and pure blackberry, white flower, melted chocolate, sweet licorice, and subtle wood notes. Full-bodied, beautifully layered, and with an awesome finish, it should drink well for four to six years or more. $20

2005 Two Left Feet

94 points. A blend of 65% shiraz, 19% merlot, and 16% cabernet sauvignon, this wine is aged for 9 to 12 months in American and French oak (half new, half year-old). It has an inky purple color, a sweet, full-bodied nose of crème de cassis, graphite, white chocolate, black olives, blackberry liqueur, and spice, and a spectacular, even unctuous texture. Drink it over the next three to four years, although it should last for a decade or longer. $20

2005 The Maitre D'

92 points. A superb cabernet sauvignon aged in a combination of American and French oak (40% new), this wine offers a crème de cassis note intermixed with hints of licorice, new wood, and spice box. The wine is full-bodied, with great intensity, purity, density, and opulence, as well as a rich mid-palate and long, supple finish displaying notions of roasted coffee and white chocolate. It's hard to believe that cab can hit this quality at this price. It is meant to be consumed young but should last for 5 to 10 years. $20

2005 Carnival of Love

99 points. A selection of the finest shiraz barrels, this beauty boasts an extraordinary black/purple color, gorgeous notes of blackberry liqueur, camphor, and smoke, and an enormous voluptuousness. There's great purity and harmony for such a rich, intense wine. As it sits in the glass, espresso, vanillin, white chocolate, and additional black fruits emerge. It should drink well for a decade. $60

2005 Enchanted Path

96 points. A mix of 66% shiraz and 34% cabernet sauvignon aged primarily in American oak (60% new), this cuvée reveals an opaque purple/blue/black color; a full-bodied, smoky nose; layers of fruit, spice, and glycerin; plus full body, superb intensity, and tremendous richness. It should age beautifully for 10 to 15 years. $60

Wines rated from 96-100 are extraordinary; 90-95, excellent; 80-89, above average to very good.

Visit www.eRobertParker.com for the Internet's most active wine bulletin board, tens of thousands of tasting notes, or to order his recent book, The World's Greatest Wine Estates: A Modern Perspective. You can also subscribe to Parker's newsletter, The Wine Advocate. Request a sample copy at: The Wine Advocate, P.O. Box 311, Monkton, MD 21111

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