In Search of Señor Presidente

Populist presidential hopeful López Obrador is neck-and-neck with technocrat Calderón. But will Mexicans tune out the World Cup to vote?

It's just 9:30 a.m. but already sweat is trickling down my back as I make my way through a crowd of 600 or so people gathered in the central plaza of Matamoros, a city along the U.S.-Mexico border. When a convoy of sport-utility vehicles drives up, people begin to cheer and excitedly wave flags stamped with a yellow-and-black sun, the symbol of Andrés Manuel López Obrador's leftist Party of the Democratic Revolution (PRD).

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