North Karelia Is Stuck In A Freeze...But Wartime Frost Is Thawing

As he hawks his handmade jewelry to tourists at Helsinki's waterfront market square, Esa Inkinen thinks of his boyhood home of Joensuu, the main city in the province of North Karelia, 450 kilometers away. He'd love to make his living there but sadly remarks there's no chance of that. And he's not alone. Since 1990, many of North Karelia's best and brightest have decamped, shrinking the province's population from 176,000 to 172,000. "It's really miserable," says the 38-year-old Inkinen. "People don't know what to do."

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