Will They Gentrify The Jewish Quarter?

It's Saturday, and the plastic-covered tables at the Kadar restaurant in downtown Budapest are filled with diners digging into matzoh ball soup and solet, a dish of slowly baked beans traditionally served on the Sabbath. Kadar is on Klauzal Square in the Seventh District, a rundown quarter that was a center of prewar Jewish life. The no-frills lunchroom is a fixture here, and pensioners and workmen rub shoulders with local celebrities, some of whom are immortalized in photos on the walls. The gurgle of seltzer siphons punctuates the clamor as a waitress shouts orders, slaps down plates, and hands out glasses of a bright red drink made from raspberry syrup.

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