Raising The Chocolate Bar Higher

Robust? Fruity? Now chocoholics are sounding like oenophiles

Behind the scenes at the tony New York eatery Le Cirque 2000, pastry chef Patrice Caillot pulls a metal tray of dainty bonbons from a cooling rack and waves them under my nose. They're flavored with lemon, cinnamon, mocha, and Earl Grey. With a wink he assures me that these rich, dark beauties melt over the tongue like a silken sundae. I take a bite. Waves of flavor wash over my taste buds, first fruity and sweet, then smoky, and finally dark and smoldering, like espresso beans.

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