The Whites Of Summer
When the weather gets warm, entertaining often includes a chilled white wine. But the most popular choice--oaky chardonnay--is the despair of wine connoisseurs. "Syrupy, gloppy chardonnay is the worst thing that can happen to you in the summer," says Andy Besch, owner of Westside Wines, a Manhattan shop. "But some people just get into a rut" and buy it anyway, he adds. And that other summertime staple, pinot grigio? "Sometimes, it's too, too light," says Sammy Agosto, a salesman at another New York merchant, Astor Wines & Spirits.
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