The Inuit Want To Hunt Seals Again...And Heal Their Wounded Culture

Just the mention of Greenpeace makes Arquato Mattiwise spit onto the permafrost parking lot. Like the other Inuits of Illulissat, a Greenlandic settlement situated north of the polar circle, the 52-year-old Mattiwise used to be a hunter. He would traverse this ice-capped landmass on dog sled for days at a time, searching for seal and reindeer. Today he makes a living taking cruise- ship passengers in a battered taxi to watch the sun set over the creaking icebergs. "I prefer hunting," he says. "But the outside world didn't give me a choice."

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