Bad Blood As The Handover Nears...But A New Leader Draws Cheers

It's just after dawn in Macau, the hour when weary gamblers stumble out of the casinos and head for home. At the public garden named for Portuguese poet Luis de Cam centses, a handful of elderly Chinese are doing tai chi exercises under the tangled banyan trees. Their arms, circling in rhythmic motion, contrast with the nearby sculpture of figures forever frozen in bronze. Titled Embrace, the work is a monument to what tourist signs here proclaim as "the centuries-old friendship between Portugal and China."

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