Stromboli: Cozying Up To A Volcano

Comandante Damiano Russo, the poised captain of the overnight ferry to the Italian Aeolian Islands, gives us a 5 a.m. wake-up call. The dark hours of early morning, he says, are the best time to see the volcanic island of Stromboli. He should know. As Odysseus is said to have done, the captain sets his vessel's course by heading toward the red glow of lava from this very active volcano.

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