Caye Caulker: Paradise Found With No Frills

"You two for Caye Caulker?" After watching several prop planes leave the Belize City airport for Ambergris Caye--Belize's most popular tourist destination--it was finally our turn. A friend and I had opted for Caye Caulker, the lesser-known of the two most-developed Belizean Cayes (pronounced "keys"), because it was cheaper and less touristy. And since we were the only ones going there last Christmas Day, Belize's Island Air rolled out an ancient four-seater just for us. I had the choice, white-knuckles seat next to the pilot.

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