After The Deluge, A Town Divided

At first glance, Troubky nad Beckou looks like a site of ethnic cleansing. Here and there, a few sturdy, pastel-painted cottages appear snug within whitewashed picket fences and manicured gardens. But many more have been razed to rubble or resemble outsize dolls' houses, their facades ripped away to bare the domestic disorder left by inhabitants forced to flee in a hurry. A shirt is rolled halfway through an antique washing mangle. An embroidered blanket is kicked back on an heirloom four-poster bed. Dirty plates molder by a sink.

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