A City Asks Where The Tourists Are...And Dreams Of The Olympics

On a chilly day, Gennady Grachev, 33, stands in his leather jacket near the baroque magnificence of the Hermitage Museum and hawks books and postcards featuring St. Petersburg's attractions. Available are photos of opera and ballet performances at the Mariinsky Theater, masterworks of art at the Hermitage and Russian Museum, and many other exhibitions featuring everything from musical instruments of the Romanov Empire to the city's horrific struggle during 900 days of Nazi siege. Grachev knows his livelihood depends on the whims of visitors who used to flock to the city. "I make enough to live on, but I'm not about to get rich," he says with a shrug.

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