As Tourists Ogle Battered Belfast...

We're on a crowded double-deck tour bus on Springfield Road, a Catholic neighborhood in Belfast, with typical red-brick semi-detached houses. "Now if you look on the left-hand side, you'll see houses with bars on the windows. That's to stop missiles from coming in," says George Grimely, the driver. With this new "Belfast: A Living History" route, trouble spots where thousands have died have become a tourist attraction. Since the tour started in March, more than 4,000 travelers have peeked from the bus at propaganda murals, fortified police stations, or afternoon shoppers.

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