Marlboro Country It Ain't

Patrick Ford mixes a scotch and water and surveys the crowd at Wollensky's Grill, a popular steakhouse and watering hole in midtown Manhattan. It's a little thin, even for a Monday night. But this is no ordinary Monday. It's Day One of New York City's Smoke-Free Air Act, which severely restricts smoking in the city's 13,000 or so restaurants. "Our policy is, it's against the law," says Ford, a Wollensky's bartender. "But I'm no policeman," he adds, as a customer lights up down the bar.

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