War Is Hell On The Tourist Trade

Soon after dawn, before the sun grows too scorching, the villagers of Jelsa wander down streets of polished stone to sit by the tiny harbor and watch the day begin. For many of them, there's not much else to do. Neno Grgevcic used to lead tourists on donkey rides through the perfumed hills of pine and lavender that ring this island town. Marijana Miskovic was busy as an innkeeper, with two apartments in her home rented out to vacationers. But Grgevcic has sold his donkeys to farmers, and Miskovic hasn't seen a paying guest all year.

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