Plummy And Spicy With A Hint Of Boom Times

Which would you rather drink to: good times or bad? In early 1992, with the nation not yet sure it had recovered from an economic slump, Dan Gainey of Gainey Vineyard in California's Santa Ynez Valley decided to bring out a cheap table wine labeled Recession Red. The $5-per-bottle vintage even had a graph on the label that charted economic decline. It sold O.K.--but its novelty wore off in an improving economy.

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