Where Beijing Meets The Boardwalk

Most of the signs on the exterior of Bill Golas' new restaurant on Atlantic City's Boardwalk are painted in the honky-tonk style typical of the Jersey Shore: Pizza! Clam Bar! Philly Cheese Steaks! Subs! But amid the clutter is one small shingle with Chinese characters crudely painted in black: Meiyang Zhongguocai Xianchao--"All kinds of Chinese food made to order." For Golas, who opened for business in February, that means offering more than egg foo young and chop suey. His menu also lists Xiamen rice noodles and stir-fried salted meat and rice--dishes you might typically find in the food stalls of Kowloon or Taipei. "There are so many Chinese in the area," says Golas. "We wanted to do something to bring them in."

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