A Thanksgiving Turkey for the .01 Percent

Americans will eat 235 million turkeys this year, about 46 million of them on Thanksgiving. Almost all will be factory farm behemoths bred for maximum white meat and minimum cost. But if you’re willing to pay—really pay—you can grace your table with a purebred heritage turkey. These free-range birds, which are growing in popularity among chefs, well-heeled home cooks, and the farm-to-table crowd, can cost six times as much as a conventional turkey. So what do you get for the money?