Shrimp toast—bread dipped in an egg wash, dredged through finely chopped prawns and deep-fried—is most commonly seen in the company of spare ribs and crab wontons on Chinese-Polynesian “pupu” platters. But at seafood hotspot Son of a Gun, chefs Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook reimagine the dish as a sandwich ($12). To build this crispy gem, slices of faintly sweet pain de mie are caked in shrimp paste (ground with pork fat, ginger, and garlic) and pan-fried in clarified butter until they develop a golden shell. Two pieces of the toast, brushed with funky hoisin sauce and spicy sriracha mayo, bookend a vinegary salad of basil, mint, and cilantro. The tiny five-bite sandwich is buttery, rich, and gone too soon.
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