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New York 2012 Best Dishes

- 2012-12-19T21:22:20Z

Photograph by Philip Lewis/Bloomberg

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Chicken Soup With Fake-Out Noodles

At the $160 per person Atera in Tribeca, chef Matthew Lightner tells you you're eating chicken soup. What he doesn't tell you is that the noodles are made out of squid. The "pasta" is neutral and nourishing. Culinary avant-gardism sometimes has its finest moments when the technique is invisible and the taste is delicious.