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Noma's Next Act

By Ryan Sutton - 2013-03-08T16:06:28Z

Photograph by Ryan Sutton/Bloomberg

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The Chef, Part II

Michelangelo Cestari, who once worked with Seidler at Mugaritz, is co-chef at Gustu. "We are not here for the guests. The guests are here for us. We want to give them our experience, our conception of food." That's how he responds when asked about Gustu's no-substitution rule, which is common in the states, but rare in Bolivia. It remains to be seen how wealthy locals will react to such policies when they're explained by servers who by design come from low-income families.