The simple union of warm, elastic tortilla and quality seafood fried to order is a civic obsession in southern California, where debates as to the best fish taco can reach a fervency rarely seen outside election years. Our pony in that perennial race: Ricky’s Fish Tacos, a tumbledown stand that's frequently in an L.A. parking lot. To make these cultish tacos ($3 each), the omnipresent Ricky Piña dips fingers of firm Vietnamese catfish in a vat of bubbling oil until the batter, seasoned with oregano, puffs and browns. The delicate catch is cradled in a corn tortilla with a squirt of crema, shreds of crunchy cabbage, and bright pico de gallo to finish it off. Befitting a roadside taco stand, Ricky’s schedule is spotty; check in with his Twitter stream prior to setting out.
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