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A Chef's Guide to Shanghai Cuisine

By Christopher St Cavish - 2013-03-29T16:04:46Z

Photograph by Christopher St Cavish 

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Zongzi, Unwrapped

These days, the locals are much more practical. Instead of drowning perfectly good rice, they season it with soy sauce, push a piece of red-braised pork or a salted egg yolk in the center, and wrap it in bamboo or reed leaves to be steamed—a win for the living. These particular zongzi are the work of Chubby Feng, a suburban Shanghai farmer-turned-zongzi mogul.