How you prefer your lobster roll can be as telling a geographic indicator as a Boston “broad A.” Connecticut indigenes will tell you a lobster roll should be warm, with meat drizzled in drawn butter. Mainers prefer their crustacean cold and napped in mayonnaise. For a diplomatic union of both delicious traditions, look no further than the Clam Shack, a Kennebunkport stronghold that will serve their rolls ($16.75) painted with mayo, glazed in butter, or slathered in a heart-stopping combination of the two. Any way you take it, the meat—picked from a one-pound lobster and steamed in seawater—is hauntingly sweet.
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