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New York 2012 Best Dishes

- 2012-12-19T21:22:20Z

Photograph by Paul Goguen/Bloomberg

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The Best Tamale on Planet Earth

What makes Empellon Cocina's tamales so silky? Is it the lard? The fine grind of masa? Nope. It's a lot more complicated than that. "You are eating a gel," chef Alex Stupak explains, before describing his elaborate cooking process, which, rest assured, still involves lard. He tops it all with shredded chicken thighs or steamed chanterelles, but really, this dish is about the corn.