Randall Grahm

Randall Grahm

Elin McCoy/Bloomberg

Randall Grahm, owner of Bonny Doon Vineyard in California and one of two main characters in An Ideal Wine, holds forth on his new terroir philosophy at Hearth Restaurant in New York. The vertical tasting of his wine Le Cigare Volant, vintages 1984 to 2008, illustrated the changes in his winemaking over 25 years.