All'Onda: NYC's Biggest Restaurant Opening of the Year?
NYC's All'Onda has already been called the biggest restaurant opening of the admittedly young year, thanks to the talent in the kitchen and the culinary twist on the menu. The Venetian-style cuisine of chef Chris Jaeckle and the wine list of restaurateur Chris Cannon are giving diners high hopes for the two-level Greenwich Village spot, where the novel idea comes in the form of Japanese ingredients that pop up in dishes like bucatini with uni and tortellini en brodo—where a parmesan dashi stands in for the traditional chicken broth you'd find at an osteria in Venice. Not to be overshadowed by the beautifully plated entrees, though, are the artfully crafted cocktails of bartenders Katie Nelson and Jason Kahn, who have deep industry connections that have put hard-to-find ingredients on the menu.
The go-to is the All'Onda Spritz, a Northern Italian classic that's reinvented with Cappelletti Aperitivo, a bitter red cordial reminiscent of Campari; it's sourced from Italy's Trentino region and has only just become available in the U.S. Served on ice with Prosecco and sparkling water, it makes for a simple, lighter-in-alcohol drink that's still quite flavorful. No wonder its namesake spritz is served morning to midnight at cicchetti bars across Venice and the Veneto. Other "fun Italian cocktails" on the list, says Nelson, include the Venetian Sour (rum, lemon, amaro, and egg white) and The Merchant (rhum agricole, dry vermouth, sake, Campari).
Kahn, who previously worked with Jaeckle at Ai Fiori, says that while the food at All'Onda is just as refined as it was at Michael White's three-star spot, the new restaurant is a bit more casual in attitude. Just the sort of place, in other words, where someone should feel as comfortable stopping by for a multi-course client dinner as they would dropping in for one quick spritz.
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