It's easy to mistake Fokuangshan Temple for Disneyland. Here, an exhibit about the Buddha, modeled on Disney's "It's a Small World," features cave-like rooms with gold Buddhas surrounded by painted plaster children and animals that burst into song when visitors walk by. In one cave, hundreds of life-size bodhisattvas meditate on fake hillsides, like so many stalagmites, while colored lights swirl around the head of a gigantic Buddha. As thousands of visitors who come every weekend exit to the sounds of mechanical birds chirping, a Buddhist nun clad in gold stiffly waves goodbye.
There's a direct connection from this Buddha light show in southern Taiwan to the Democratic National Committee's fund-raising activities in the U.S. The Buddhist organization's branch in Los Angeles, the Hsi Lai Temple, is being investigated by the Federal Election Commission regarding its fund-raiser featuring Vice-President Al Gore. It's not clear that the event was anything more than an attempt to boost the temple's prestige in the U.S. What is becoming clear is that Taiwan's biggest temples are increasingly wielding clout among millions of followers and having an impact far beyond the confines of the island. "These are not the traditional temples we used to know," says Chu Rong-kuei, a researcher at the Academia Sinica think tank. "It's big business."
WESTERN FREEDOMS. Fokuangshan is one of many large Taiwanese Buddhist organizations benefiting from a changing Taiwanese society. Unlike traditional ancestral worship and meditative Buddhist practices, the new-style temples are organized around a central, often charismatic personality. They draw people seeking answers in uncertain times: an unresolved relationship with China, a changing economy, a society adjusting to Western-style freedoms. They attract huge amounts of money from Taiwan's growing middle class. They operate like large companies, earning substantial income from publishing and other promotional ventures. Their influence is so highly regarded that politicians court their political support.
Like some evangelical groups in the U.S., several have become enmeshed in financial scandals. That has sparked a national soul-searching over religion's role in society. Newspaper editorials question whether Taiwan's society is sick. "Taiwan has changed so much, so quickly, people don't know how to identify themselves in present society," says sociologist Lin Mei-rong. "There's a kind of emotional need to grasp something they can identify with." Taiwan's democratization process has also brought religion and politics closer together. Politicians use temples as key places to shop for votes at election time, and the temples quietly back the status quo by declining to criticize the ruling Kuomintang (KMT).
The 70-year-old leader of Fokuangshan, Master Hsing Yun, is considered one of the more political religious leaders. He has historical ties to the KMT, but he backed a candidate favoring reunification with China against the more independence-minded President Lee Teng-hui during March's presidential election. Gore, while a U.S. Senator, visited Fokuangshan in 1989. Fokuangshan officials say the temple does not give money to U.S. politicians, but members of the U.S. temple have donated on their own.
GLOBAL RECOGNITION. Fokuangshan officials won't say how much money the temple raises, but the organization supports 120 branches around the globe, including nine in the U.S. It boasts four universities, 13 Buddhist colleges, 22 libraries, 1 million followers, and a number of charities. To charges the temple is more a business than a religion, Yi Kung, director of Fokuangshan's cultural department, says the temple depends on its income to support its good works. "Our principle is, the money comes in from all directions, so it should also go out in all directions," she says.
Since September, leaders of various cults have been charged with swindling followers. One temple leader, using doctored photographs to show himself standing simultaneously on the Great Wall in China and in Taiwan, allegedly amassed a $100 million fortune. Followers of yet another group accused their leader of selling bogus land deals in Belize. Both are awaiting trial for fraud.
Justice Minister Liao Cheng-hao has vowed to "clean up religion," and there are calls for regulations to separate "legitimate" from "false" groups. That kind of talk raises concerns about the heavy hand of a government that has historically quashed dissent. But as the wealth and fears of a newly rich society grow, the delicate balance between church and state will have to be carefully negotiated.