How on Earth Do You Pick the World’s Best Restaurants?

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Sommelier Josep Roca, brother of Chef Joan Roca, poses for a portrait at the winne cellar of the Spanish Restaurant El Celler de Can Roca on May 19, 2011 in Girona, Spain. Photograph: David Ramos via Getty Images

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Sommelier Josep Roca, brother of Chef Joan Roca, poses for a portrait at the winne cellar of the Spanish Restaurant El Celler de Can Roca on May 19, 2011 in Girona, Spain. Photograph: David Ramos via Getty Images Close

Sommelier Josep Roca, brother of Chef Joan Roca, poses for a portrait at the winne cellar of the Spanish Restaurant... Read More

Photographer: Richard Vines/Bloomberg

Joan, Jordi and Josep Roca stand outside El Celler de Can Roca. Their mother runs a cafe round the corner in the city of Girona. Close

Joan, Jordi and Josep Roca stand outside El Celler de Can Roca. Their mother runs a cafe round the corner in the city of Girona.

Photographer: Richard Vines/Bloomberg.

Danish chef Rene Redzepi stands outside Noma. The Copenhagen restaurant was named best in the world for three years in a row. Close

Danish chef Rene Redzepi stands outside Noma. The Copenhagen restaurant was named best in the world for three years in a row.

Photographer: Richard Vines/Bloomberg

Daniel Humm and William Guidara show they are not food snobs. Their New York restaurant Eleven Madison Park is among the best in the world. Close

Daniel Humm and William Guidara show they are not food snobs. Their New York restaurant Eleven Madison Park is among... Read More

Photographer: Richard Vines/Bloomberg

Chef Ferran Adria stands outside El Bulli. The restaurant, north of Barcelona, won the world's best title for a record five times before closing in 2012. Close

Chef Ferran Adria stands outside El Bulli. The restaurant, north of Barcelona, won the world's best title for a... Read More

Photographer: Richard Vines/Bloomberg

Massimo Bottura is one of Italy's leading chefs. His Osteria Francescana, in the city of Modena, holds three Michelin stars. Close

Massimo Bottura is one of Italy's leading chefs. His Osteria Francescana, in the city of Modena, holds three Michelin stars.

El Cellar de Can Roca was overwhelmed after it won the World’s 50 Best Restaurants title for the first time in 2013.

The waiting list grew to one year and three people were employed to turn down requests for tables, said Josep Roca, one of three brothers who own the establishment in Girona, Spain.

The day after Noma won in 2010, about 100,000 people tried to book online, enough to fill the Copenhagen restaurant for years, according to chef Rene Redzepi.

“A few years ago, it was a very dark time for my restaurant,” said chef Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana, in Modena, Italy. “When it was named best in Italy and the highest climber in the 50 Best, it made me determined to save the restaurant as I attempted to evolve Italian cuisine.

‘‘All the gastronomic guides have now named us best in Italy for four years in a row. In any other country, that would settle the matter, but in Italy, people are still debating. We are just like that. The one thing you must remember in Italy is: Don’t mess with your grandmother’s recipe,” he said in an interview.

If you think the 50 Best is hype, I am part of it. I chair the U.K. and Ireland voting panel for the awards, which will be announced tonight at the Guildhall in London. The organizers say 47 of the Top 50 chefs will attend.

Test of Time

The World’s 50 Best Restaurants is a quirky list and no one claims it is definitive. Avant-garde restaurants tend to place higher than traditional establishments whose gastronomy has stood the test of time. There’s an element of fashion as the chefs of the moment (many of whom are friends) win greater recognition than the grand old culinary masters.

And the Winners Are: Noma Returns to Top Spot in World's 50 Best Restaurants List

In Paris, for example, most of the traditional gastronomic restaurants such as those of Alain Ducasse are missing from the Top 50, while there is room for less-elevated establishments such as Le Chateaubriand and Septime. (I am a fan of both.) Ducasse didn’t show up when he won for lifetime achievement.

The 50 Best list often comes under attack, and I can see why. The term “best restaurant” doesn’t mean a lot, and when you look at the rankings, they are confusing. You might go a long way to find anyone who thought in 2013 that Dinner by Heston Blumenthal was the seventh-best in the world when the Fat Duck placed at 33.

What the list does is to provide a snapshot of the establishments that are in favor with restaurant-business insiders who dine out regularly. My panel includes some of the U.K.’s finest chefs, for example. I’d like to tell you who they are but the list is confidential to cut the risk of lobbying.

Chefs Networking

The annual event is important in itself as an opportunity for chefs around the world to discuss food, ingredients, cooking techniques and restaurants. Absentees this year may include Blumenthal, who is traveling; and Daniel Boulud (Daniel), who will be with his wife as she is about to give birth; and several other chefs.

Chefs from as far away as Lima have made the journey, for what is now a gathering lasting several days.

My memories from last year include looking along the bar during an after-party at Roka and seeing Blumenthal, Thomas Keller (Per se) and several of the world’s leading chefs. An early-hours taxi ride to Clove Club saw me dancing wildly with Bottura while Redzepi looked on.

That was an embarrassing memory in the morning.

The awards started in 2002 as a feature in Restaurant, a U.K. trade magazine owned by William Reed Business Media. The list was a back-of-an-envelope idea to attract readers. The fact no one bothered to define “best” reflects this casual beginning.

Twenty-six Panels

The list is compiled from the votes of 26 panels around the world. Each panel has a chairman who picks 35 members, consisting of food writers, chefs, restaurateurs and gourmets. I have headed the U.K. and Ireland panel -- unpaid -- for three years.

Panelists must have dined at the restaurants for which they vote in the 18 months before voting. Members list seven establishments in order of preference, including at least three outside of their geographical region. The votes are collated in October. I don’t know the results before they are published.

El Bulli won in the first year and triumphed four more times (2006-2009) before chef Ferran Adria decided to close it. Other winners include the French Laundry (2003, 2004), the Fat Duck (2005), Noma (2010-12) and El Celler de Can Roca.

Awards already announced for 2014 include Lifetime Achievement: Fergus Henderson of St. John, London; and Best Female Chef: Helena Rizzo of Mani, Sao Paulo.

The awards are sponsored by San Pellegrino & Acqua Panna.

(Richard Vines is the chief food critic for Bloomberg. He is U.K. and Ireland chairman of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. Opinions expressed are his own. Follow him on Twitter @richardvines)

To contact the reporter on this story: Richard Vines in London at rvines@bloomberg.net

To contact the editors responsible for this story: Jared Sandberg at jedsandberg@bloomberg.net Ben Vickers, David Risser

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