First Class to Funky Bohemian: 10 Great NYC Wine Bars
Wine bars are trendy now, so beware -- lots of dowdy bar-and-grills, frat-boy beer joints and third- rate bistros are adding a few commercial wines by the glass and rebranding themselves as the real deal.
To qualify as a bona fide wine bar, the primary focus has to be on the grape: If the predominant bottles are vodka, it’s not a wine bar.
The purveyors should also have a spot of erudition, insight, maybe even passion. For Morrell’s wine director Jean Reilly, the bartenders are all-important: “They should be able to engage and speak knowledgeably about wine in a way that puts the customer at ease.”
Every wine bar serves a cheese and charcuterie plate, but some go to the trouble of seeking out more flavorful, artisanal varieties, and that’s always a good portent for the quality of the wine.
Here are ten of my New York City favorites, serving great -- and interesting -- wine with flair and expertise.
Anfora
Dim lights and horseshoe-shaped banquettes impart the feel of a hip cocktail lounge. Though the drinks are impressive, the main business here is wine.
And good food, too -- don’t pass on the fine selection of cheeses. And I especially liked the hand-cranked prosciutto slicer.
Recommended: Riesling, Gunther Steinmetz 2010, Mosel, Germany.
At 34 8th Ave. and Jane St. Information: +1-212.518.2722; http://www.anforanyc.com.
Bar Veloce
A recent expansion transformed Bar Veloce from a claustrophobic tunnel into a large and ultra-modern space.
Have a plate of tramezzini, three-layered finger sandwiches made with Sicilian tuna or eggplant with olive paste.
In case you miss the Italian connection, three vintage Vespas are on display.
Recommended: Barolo Parusso 2007, Piemonte, Italy.
At 175 2nd Avenue, between 11th and 12th Streets. Information: +1-212.260.3200; http://www.barveloce.com.
Bin 71
There is a television, but when I was there, the sound was off, and the ambient music was turned low enough for non- screaming chat.
The three-sided, marble-topped bar and two rectangular communal tables were occupied by good-looking 20-and 30-year-old professionals, perusing the well-thought-out, international wine list.
Feast on Serrano ham, Malpeque oysters, pink-snapper sashimi and polenta baked with Vermont’s pungent Bayley Hazen blue.
Recommended: Arneis Roero, Bruno Giacosa 2007, Piemonte, Italy.
At 237 Columbus Ave. and 71st St. Information: +1-212-362- 5446; http://bin71.com.
Buceo 95
The winning tapas just kept coming at this charming bar: pungent olives, super-fresh grilled calamari, tomato toast, spicy meatballs and Spanish garlic shrimp.
All were washed down with a succession of extremely well- chosen wines, mainly from Spain and South America.
Recommended: Tempranillo Blend, Bodegas Olabarri 2001, Rioja Gran Reserva, Spain.
At 201 West 95th St., near Amsterdam Ave. Information: +1- 212-662-7010; http://www.buceo95.com.
Enoteca I Trulli
With its simple but elegant marble bar and scrubbed-pine tables, this is one of the most unostentatiously attractive wine bars in the city. Plus the garden is now open for the summer.
A wide selection of unusual Italian wines, above-average panini and panzerotti and the relaxed professionalism of its staff create the sense that you’re in an upscale Roman enoteca.
Recommended: Arialdo Sangiovese 2009, Dalle Nostre Mani, Toscana, Italy. The thoughtfully constructed flights are also worth attention.
At 122 E. 27th St. near Lexington Ave. Information: +1-212- 481-7372; http://www.itrulli.com.
Epistrophy Cafe
There’s a relaxed Bohemian vibe here, imparted by the scuffed wooden bar, exposed brick walls and eclectic, junk-shop collection of sofas, chairs and tables.
The food and wine are predominantly Sardinian: the sformato di zucchini was a revelation and the Tagliere di Terra, a plate of cheese and cold cuts, a meal in itself.
Recommended: Cannonau di Sardegna, Terreforru, Meloni Vini 2007, Italy.
At 200 Mott St. Information: +1-212-966-0904; http://www.epistrophycafe.com.
Kaia Wine Bar
Friendly service, an imaginative list of South African wines -- kaia means “hut” in South Africa -- and splendid food make up for the concrete floor, unadorned gray walls and metallic bar.
Ever tried Buffel Frikadelle, or bison meatballs with gravy and celery root puree? Inside tip: avoid the Pinotage.
Recommended: Chardonnay Pinot Noir, Haute Cabriere 2010, Franschhoek, South Africa. And, no, that’s not a typo -- it really is a Chard/PN blend, and it’s white.
At 1614 3rd Avenue between 90th and 91st Streets. Information: +1-212-722-0490; http://kaiawinebar.com.
Kashkaval
Peer through the storefront window and you might assume Kashkaval was just a boutique-sized Mediterranean deli. Squeeze past the display of cheese and olives, and you find yourself in a packed, tiny wine bar infused with the happy buzz of people consuming good food and wine.
A variety of cheeses from 14 different countries and an enormous bowl of the best hummus I have ever tasted are the stars here.
Recommended: Chenin Blanc/Viognier, Pine Ridge 2010, Napa, California.
At 856 Ninth Ave., near 56th St. Information: +1-212-581- 8282; http://www.kashkavalfoods.com.
Morrell’s Wine Bar & Cafe
As befits its tony location overlooking Rockefeller Center, Morrell’s is the ultimate in wine bar sophistication.
If you appreciate the difference between Burgundy and Brunello, you’ll fare well at this chic boite. If you don’t, the friendly, well-informed staff will be happy to guide you through their pricy offerings.
The menu alone is worth a visit as it’s hard to do better in the neighborhood. Try the deviled eggs with black truffle.
Recommended: Cotes du Rhone, Delas Freres, St. Esprit 2009, Rhone, France.
At 1 Rockefeller Center, 49th Street between 5th and 6th Avenues. Information: +1-212-262-7700; http://morrellwinebar.com.
The Tangled Vine
What’s not to love about the Tangled Vine? They have a commendable selection of hidden gems, unusual bin-end lots and small production European wines to tempt the enthusiast and curious amateur alike.
Combine this with an easygoing, knowledgeable staff and fantastic food and you get pretty close to my ideal wine bar. Especially alluring are the broccoli rabe, quail egg and Parmesan crostini.
Recommended: Rosso di Montalcino, La Rasina 2008, Toscana, Italy.
At 434 Amsterdam Ave. and 81st St. Information: +1- 646.863.3896; http://tangledvinebar.com.
(Nick Passmore writes on wine for Bloomberg Businessweek. Any opinions expressed are his own.)
Muse highlights include book and movie reviews.
To contact the writer of this column: Nick Passmore at nick@nick onwine.com.
To contact the editor responsible for this column: Manuela Hoelterhoff in New York at mhoelterhoff@bloomberg.net.
Kaia Wine Bar
Suzaan Hauptfleisch/Kaia Wine Bar via Bloomberg
Patrons enjoy themselves at Kaia Wine Bar, located located at 1614 3rd Avenue between 90th and 91st Streets.
Patrons enjoy themselves at Kaia Wine Bar, located located at 1614 3rd Avenue between 90th and 91st Streets. Source: Suzaan Hauptfleisch/Kaia Wine Bar via Bloomberg
Kaia Wine Bar
Suzaan Hauptfleisch/Kaia Wine Bar via Bloomberg
The window sign of Kaia Wine Bar. Kaia serves up South African wine and cuisine.
The window sign of Kaia Wine Bar. Kaia serves up South African wine and cuisine. Source: Suzaan Hauptfleisch/Kaia Wine Bar via Bloomberg
Anfora
Alexndra Moskovitz/Anfora via Bloomberg
Wine and cheese at Anfora. Though the drinks are impressive, the main business here is wine.
Wine and cheese at Anfora. Though the drinks are impressive, the main business here is wine. Source: Alexndra Moskovitz/Anfora via Bloomberg
Anfora
Michael McCarthy/Anfora via Bloomberg
Dim lights and horseshoe-shaped banquettes impart the feel of a hip cocktail lounge at Anfora.
Dim lights and horseshoe-shaped banquettes impart the feel of a hip cocktail lounge at Anfora. Photographer: Michael McCarthy/Anfora via Bloomberg
Anfora
Michael McCarthy/Anfora via Bloomberg
An exterior view of Anfora, located at 34 8th Avenue and Jane St.
An exterior view of Anfora, located at 34 8th Avenue and Jane St. Photographer: Michael McCarthy/Anfora via Bloomberg
Buceo 95
Jim Petersen/Buceo 95 via Bloomberg
The sign above Buceo 95. Wines at Buceo 95 come mainly from Spain and South America.
The sign above Buceo 95. Wines at Buceo 95 come mainly from Spain and South America. Source: Jim Petersen/Buceo 95 via Bloomberg
Buceo 95
Jim Petersen/Buceo 95 via Bloomberg
The front of Buceo 95, located at 201 West 95th St., near Amsterdam Avenue.
The front of Buceo 95, located at 201 West 95th St., near Amsterdam Avenue. Source: Jim Petersen/Buceo 95 via Bloomberg
Epistrophy
Nicola Paganelli/Epistrophy via Bloomberg
The awning of Epistrophy, located at 220 Mott. St.
The awning of Epistrophy, located at 220 Mott. St. Source: Nicola Paganelli/Epistrophy via Bloomberg
Epistrophy
Nicola Paganelli/Epistrophy via Bloomberg
There is a relaxed Bohemian vibe imparted by the scuffed wooden bar, exposed brick and eclectic furniture at Epistrophy.
There is a relaxed Bohemian vibe imparted by the scuffed wooden bar, exposed brick and eclectic furniture at Epistrophy. Source: Nicola Paganelli/Epistrophy via Bloomberg
Kashkaval
Angelica Silva/Kashkaval via Bloomberg
Patrons at Kashkaval, a wine bar that boasts a variety of cheeses from 14 different countries.
Patrons at Kashkaval, a wine bar that boasts a variety of cheeses from 14 different countries. Photographer: Angelica Silva/Kashkaval via Bloomberg
Kashkaval
Angelica Silva/Kashkaval via Bloomberg
An assortment of food on display at Kashkaval. At first glance, the wine bar looks like a boutique-sized deli.
An assortment of food on display at Kashkaval. At first glance, the wine bar looks like a boutique-sized deli. Photographer: Angelica Silva/Kashkaval via Bloomberg
Morell Wine Bar & Cafe
Jean Reilly/Morell Wine Bar & Cafe via Bloomberg
Executive chef Jake Klein and Jean Reilly, master of wine, at the Morell Wine Bar & Cafe. Morrell's is located at 1 Rockefeller Center, 49th St. between 5th and 6th Avenues.
Executive chef Jake Klein and Jean Reilly, master of wine, at the Morell Wine Bar & Cafe. Morrell's is located at 1 Rockefeller Center, 49th St. between 5th and 6th Avenues. Source: Jean Reilly/Morell Wine Bar & Cafe via Bloomberg
The Tangled Vine
Victoria Levin/The Tangled Vine via Bloomberg
Wine bottles on display at the Tangled Vine. On "Winesday Wednesdays," all bottles are available by the glass.
Wine bottles on display at the Tangled Vine. On "Winesday Wednesdays," all bottles are available by the glass. Source: Victoria Levin/The Tangled Vine via Bloomberg
The Tangled Vine
Victoria Levin/The Tangled Vine via Bloomberg
Seating by large windows at the Tangled Vine, located at 434 Amsterdam Avenue and 81st St.
Seating by large windows at the Tangled Vine, located at 434 Amsterdam Avenue and 81st St. Source: Victoria Levin/The Tangled Vine via Bloomberg
The Tangled Vine
Michael Weschler/The Tangled Vine via Bloomberg
The wine cellar at the Tangled Vine utilizes eco-conscious Burgundian limestone bottle storage.
The wine cellar at the Tangled Vine utilizes eco-conscious Burgundian limestone bottle storage. Photographer: Michael Weschler/The Tangled Vine via Bloomberg
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