Chefs Tip Koffmann’s, L’Anima as London Michelin Star Winners
Michelin announces the winners and losers for its 2011 U.K. guide on Jan. 18 and the country’s chefs are betting that Koffmann’s, L’Anima and Marcus Wareing will be among the London restaurants that gain a star.
A survey of almost 50 culinary masters showed a dozen believe Pierre Koffmann will win a star for his restaurant in Knightsbridge and there are eight votes for L’Anima. That venue’s Italian chef Francesco Mazzei might be forgiven for impatience: This is the third straight year he has been tipped.
Eight say Marcus Wareing should get his third and there was also support for the Square, the Ledbury and Le Gavroche to attain that status. There are only four such restaurants in the U.K: Gordon Ramsay, Alain Ducasse, the Fat Duck and the Waterside Inn. One respondent voted for Ramsay to lose a star.
Here’s what the chefs have to say:
Joel Antunes (Brasserie Joel): “Koffmann’s should get one. I haven’t been to Bistrot Bruno Loubet yet but he is a very good chef and I think he’ll get one. Marcus Wareing deserves his third. He’s the best technician in London.”
Jason Atherton (Pollen Street Social): “Sat Bains will be two stars and L’Enclume. Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles could become the first Scottish restaurant to win three stars. In London, they’ve got to look at the Square and Pied a Terre and Marcus Wareing definitely has a chance of going to three. I can’t understand why L’Anima has never got one. I also think Bocca di Lupo, and why not one for Barrafina? It’s the best tapas in London.”
Pascal Aussignac (Club Gascon): “Marcus Wareing (at the Berkeley) should have three and Gordon Ramsay should lose one and Hakkasan should lose its star. Sketch should get two stars.”
Sat Bains (Sat Bains, Nottingham): “I’d like to see Claude go to three or at least rising three. His style at Hibiscus is unique. L’Enclume deserves two.”
Vineet Bhatia (Rasoi): “Le Gavroche deserves to get a third star and Galvin La Chapelle should get a star. Other than that, I’m waiting for Jason Atherton to open and start winning stars again. I’d like Corrigan’s to get a star and for Angela Hartnett (Murano) to win one in her own right.”
Antonin Bonnet (Greenhouse): “Koffmann’s, Bar Boulud and Viajante, and it would be nice to see John Campbell get one at Coworth Park.”
Claude Bosi (Hibiscus): “The Greenhouse is long overdue for its second star. The same with Simon Rogan (L’Enclume) and Sat Bains. Gidleigh Park should be three. We ate there a while ago and I still remember each dish.”
Adam Byatt (Trinity): Marcus Wareing is cooking the most consistent food in London and I would imagine is well on his way to that third star. Bryn Williams at Odette’s deserves to be recognized. Koffmann’s and Corrigan’s Mayfair are both well worthy of a star.”
Richard Corrigan (Corrigan’s Mayfair): “Pierre Koffmann will probably get a star. He’s been part of the Michelin family for so long it would just be courtesy. It would be wonderful if Bruno (Loubet) gets one for his super-refined bistro. And I still think our Italian friend over in the city (Francesco Mazzei at L’Anima): The place is fantastic and the food is beautiful.”
Helene Darroze (Helene Darroze at the Connaught): “Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley. He’s definitely ready for his third star. And also, for me, the Greenhouse.”
Anthony Demetre (Les Deux Salons): “Joel Antunes should get a star for Brasserie Joel. Pierre Koffmann (Koffmann’s) should, too, and Claude (Bosi) could be in shape for his third at Hibiscus. La Petite Maison is long overdue. They make the best creme brulee in town.”
Chris Galvin (Galvin Bistrot de Luxe): “I’d love to see L’Anima finally get a star. Francesco (Mazzei) deserves it. Marcus (Wareing) might get his third. He’s been pushing hard for it. Bistrot Bruno Loubet might get one. Bruno has no agenda: He’s just a lovely, lovely cook.”
Alexis Gauthier (Gauthier): “I would like to see Odette’s in Primrose Hill get a star. Bryn Williams is a real chef: ingredient-focused and talented. Also one of the coolest chefs in London and not big-headed, which is a nice change.”
Brett Graham (Ledbury): “The Greenhouse should get two stars. It’s long overdue the second star.”
Skye Gyngell (Petersham Nurseries): “I don’t really understand the star system but Polpo and Bocca di Lupo are both great for what they are. They remind me of hole-in-the-wall restaurants in Melbourne.”
Anna Hansen (Modern Pantry): “Viajante. It would be cool if they did because they are quite cutting edge and Nuno (Mendes) has a bit of flair.”
Henry Harris (Racine): “I don’t understand why Le Gavroche doesn’t have three stars and why are there no pizzerias with stars, particularly Santa Maria in Ealing? Viet Grill is probably the finest Vietnamese restaurant in London and deserves a star.”
Angela Hartnett (Murano): “Phil Howard for his third star at the Square.”
Fergus Henderson (St John): “Anyone who wants a Michelin star, I wish them well.”
Jocelyn Herland Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester): “I would be happy for the team at the Greenhouse if they won a second star. There has been continuity in their cuisine from the start. I like the story of Antonin Bonnet’s cuisine.”
Philip Howard (The Square): “Marcus (Wareing) definitely warrants three stars. It’s a world-class restaurant. Tom (Aikens) should get his second star and Texture should get a rising” second star.
Jacob Kenedy (Bocca di Lupo): “Sam and Sam Clark, because Moro is London’s best, and has been since the day it opened.”
Tom Kitchin (Kitchin, Edinburgh): “Koffmann’s not chasing stars but if he doesn’t get one, we should all stand down. La Petite Maison should get one, too. It’s about great produce cooked really, really well.”
Atul Kochhar (Benares): “Star of India on Old Brompton Road should get a star soon.”
Pierre Koffmann (Koffmann’s): “Raphael (Duntoye) at La Petite Maison should get a star. It’s strange that he hasn’t. Joel Antunes (Brasserie Joel) should have one. And why not a third star for Brett (Graham) at the Ledbury? Every time we’ve been there, we’ve had a good meal.”
Jeremy Lee (Blueprint Cafe): “Michael Smith at the Three Chimneys on the Isle of Skye seems a worthy recipient.”
Giorgio Locatelli (Locanda Locatelli): “I would love for Tinello to win a Michelin star.”
Bruno Loubet (Bistrot Bruno Loubet): “It would be nice to see Phil Howard getting the ultimate consecration at the Square and getting the third star. I predict that Viajante will get one and I hope this will be the year for L’Anima.”
Francesco Mazzei (L’Anima): “Galvin la Chapelle will get a star this year. They’ve been doing so well and there’s great feedback. Claude Bosi deserves his third at Hibiscus. I’m sure Koffmann’s will get a star. He’s an institution.”
Thomasina Miers (Wahaca): “L’Anima should get a star and Launceston Place should be considered too.”
Russell Norman (Polpo): “I’d be surprised if Les Deux Salons doesn’t get one because of Michelin’s love affair with Arbutus and Wild Honey, but I really hope Francesco (Mazzei) gets one at L’Anima because of his dedication and hard work and the excellence of his dishes. A good bet would be Brett for a rising third at the Ledbury. And Koffmann’s is a safe bet for one.”
Jamie Oliver (Barbecoa): “People like Bruno Loubet always deserve a star and why on earth is Skye Gyngell at Petersham Nurseries without one? And Odette’s in Primrose Hill. I go there a couple of times a year and Bryn Williams is really good. He cooks with lots of love.”
Shane Osborn (Pied a Terre): “L’Enclume should get two stars, and maybe Bar Boulud for one.”
Helena Puolakka (Skylon): “Koffmann’s might get one and possibly Bar Boulud, though that’s not the traditional Michelin style.”
Gary Rhodes (Rhodes W1): “I’d like to see Bar Boulud win a star. The menu features so many French classics which I adore and which have been executed so well. Dean Yasharian is a fantastic chef and the restaurant is a wonderful addition to the London scene.”
Simon Rogan (L’Enclume): “Viajante should be considered. One of my chefs went recently and was completely blown away.”
Albert Roux (Le Gavroche): “I had lunch and dinner on several occasions at Arbutus, and in my view it was certainly bordering on two stars.”
Michel Roux Jr. (Le Gavroche): “Bar Boulud and Koffmann’s should both get a star. They are the two that really stand out.” How about Le Gavroche for a third? “No comment.”
Mark Sargeant (ex-Gordon Ramsay): “La Petite Maison for its first. I really like that place. It’s some of the best food I’ve had in London. It would be fantastic if Claude Bosi got his third star” at Hibiscus.
Jun Tanaka (Pearl): “Viajante, because it’s a fresh take on fine dining. Galvin La Chapelle is just great classic French food done perfectly. Dinings is the best Japanese food in London.”
Mitch Tonks (Rockfish, Bristol): “Koffmann’s, certainly. Pierre is one of those old master chefs who is fabulous at what he does. Phil Howard should get his third star at the Square. He’s absolutely phenomenal. I haven’t eaten at Marcus Wareing recently but he is incredible and very dedicated. I’m not a Ramsay hater but a chef should be in his kitchen if he’s going to have three stars. L’Anima should get a star and I’ve had some really good meals at Bocca di Lupo.”
Marcus Wareing (Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley): Trinity, in Clapham, should get a star. Adam Byatt consistently provides interesting, creative dishes and he has a loyal local clientele. The Greenhouse should get a second star.”
Bryn Williams (Odette’s): “Tristan Welch at Launceston Place and Alex Gauthier at Gauthier Soho. I really admire people who go out and open their own place.”
Ed Wilson (Brawn): “Galvin la Chapelle should be in line to get a star. It stands out. Corrigan’s Mayfair should possibly get its first and it would be good to see Francesco (Mazzei) get one at L’Anima.”
Antony Worrall Thompson (Kew Grill): “Koffmann’s definitely deserves a star. He’s the master. And Bruce Poole at Chez Bruce. Brett should get his third at the Ledbury at some stage, but I guess they’ll make him wait a bit longer. He is clearly cooking three-star food consistently.”
(Richard Vines is the chief food critic for Muse, the arts and leisure section of Bloomberg News. Opinions expressed are his own.)
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