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Benno Brings Tiny-Tailed Lobster to $20-Million Lincoln: Review

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Photographer: Paul Goguen/Bloomberg

The elegant bar area at Lincoln.

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Photographer: Paul Goguen/Bloomberg

The elegant bar area at Lincoln. Close

The elegant bar area at Lincoln.

Photographer: Paul Goguen/Bloomberg

A few of the Met from a dining room at Lincoln. Close

A few of the Met from a dining room at Lincoln.

Photographer: Paul Goguen/Bloomberg

The exterior of Lincoln restaurant, with a sculpture by Henry Moore in the foreground, in New York. The restaurant is located at 142 West 65th Street in Manhattan. Close

The exterior of Lincoln restaurant, with a sculpture by Henry Moore in the foreground, in New York. The restaurant is... Read More

Photographer: Paul Goguen/Bloomberg

The east dining room at Lincoln. Close

The east dining room at Lincoln.

Photographer: Paul Goguen/Bloomberg

A dining room at Lincoln. Close

A dining room at Lincoln.

Photographer: Paul Goguen/Bloomberg

Terrina di fegato grasso at Lincoln is made with foie gras, oxtail and beef tongue terrine with mustard seed agro-dolce. Close

Terrina di fegato grasso at Lincoln is made with foie gras, oxtail and beef tongue terrine with mustard seed agro-dolce.

Photographer: Paul Goguen/Bloomberg

Raviolo d'Astice at Lincoln, made with Nova Scotia lobster and romanesco tarragon. Close

Raviolo d'Astice at Lincoln, made with Nova Scotia lobster and romanesco tarragon.

Photographer: Paul Goguen/Bloomberg

Pollo arrosto con zuppa Gallurese at Lincoln. The dish is made with chicken, pane Toscano, cabbage and provolone. Close

Pollo arrosto con zuppa Gallurese at Lincoln. The dish is made with chicken, pane Toscano, cabbage and provolone.

Photographer: Paul Goguen/Bloomberg

Tiramisu with tuile al cacao at Lincoln. Close

Tiramisu with tuile al cacao at Lincoln.

Photographer: Paul Goguen/Bloomberg

The west dining room at Lincoln in New York. The restaurant is located at 142 West 65th Street at Lincoln Center. Close

The west dining room at Lincoln in New York. The restaurant is located at 142 West 65th Street at Lincoln Center.

Eventually, Jonathan Benno’s $20 million Lincoln should become the destination restaurant it’s meant to be. The food has a long way to go, but the digs are really nice.

This occurred to me as I chewed, and chewed, on the pork loin. The leathery texture seemed less challenging as I gazed at the Metropolitan Opera across the plaza, enticingly framed by Lincoln’s enormous glass walls.

So it goes at Lincoln Center’s latest addition, more than just a fancy trattoria serving a mixed-bag of ridiculously expensive entrees. Enter the glass and wood space, its roof a grassy hillock where Juilliard dancers soak up sun, and you’re part of one of the city’s great new gathering spots.

Then the build-your-own Negroni bar blurs the focus.

This aperitif is typically a tannic mix of gin, Campari and sweet vermouth. Lincoln offers 125 variants. I paired Hendricks (cucumbery), Aperol (orangey) and Lillet Blanc (flowery) for a lighter riff on the original. It was lovely.

Sip your potable, swivel in your leather chair and contemplate the reflecting pool outside -- if you’re sitting in the East room.

You then look at the menu and probably grow despondent. Benno’s backing comes from the Patina Restaurant Group, responsible for the Rockefeller Center Ice Rink, Macy’s Cellar Bar & Grill, Tortilla Jo’s at Disneyland and various other venues whose goal is to get you in, ply you with cost-effective inoffensive fare and get you out in a fixed period of time. And that’s exactly the type of efficiency many of Lincoln’s pre- theater diners undoubtedly will seek out.

Lazy Salad

The first item listed is a $16 salad. When Benno was chef at Thomas Keller’s Per Se, he paired sweet beets with a gel made stringent with Angostura bitters, a brilliant melange of earthy textures and flavors. Lincoln’s mixed-green salad could be anybody’s, and it’s oversalted.

There are easily assembled preparations like prosciutto with burrata and squash ($22). It’s well executed, the creaminess of the cheese offsetting the salty meat. Yet it’s no more distinctive than one served at a catered dinner party.

What’s better than pate before the Philharmonic? Not much. Lincoln ruins a $26 foie gras and oxtail terrine with bites of gristly fat. Across Broadway at noisy Bar Boulud, you can get some of the finest pate in the land for under $20.

Benno is best when he veers from the predictable.

Does any other cook plunge cod in a nutty prosciutto broth? I doubt it. Does anyone else cut razor clams to the same length as cavatelli? You don’t know which white batons are dough or mollusk until they’re in your mouth.

Scrubbing Bubbles

Cacciucco ($36) sensuously balances the tingle of silky, rare prawn and the cozy, fennel-infused broth they float in.

Fried lambs tongue, its musky tang lingering for minutes, gets a sweet treat of beets to soften the heady blow. Pair it with a glass of bone dry Lambrusco, a sparkling red whose bubbles scrub the gaminess off your tongue.

Items from the $110 tasting menu can be ordered a la carte. Be sure to ask for pricing in advance: A few little slices of insipid steak with bone marrow custard were $40 and a far cry from the massively flavorful rib cap Benno served at Per Se.

A single, stellar raviolo packed with a tiny, bisque- drenched lobster tail was excellent. It also was $38.

More Risks

Malloreddus, little knob-shaped pasta with lemon and preserved tuna, is a cheaper deal off the chef’s menu at $22.

Benno knows rustic food like this from his days at the outstanding Craft. Buttered gnocchi evoke Tom Colicchio’s solid dumplings. But sardine pasta that’s indistinguishable from home cooked versions just isn’t worth $24, nor is mushy lasagna at $26. Chicken confit packs a punch of concentrated flavor; the accompanying breast is dry and pedestrian ($32).

Benno regains our trust with high-end versions of Italian- American classics, including unexpectedly light, greaseless eggplant Parmesan.

He wakes up tiramisu with coffee liqueur and a crispy chocolate tuile on top -- creme brulee meets baba au rhum. The typical sweetness of an airy ricotta cheesecake is delegated to a side of cinnamon gelato. It’s half cheese-plate, half dessert.

What lingers, though, are the dishes like that nutty cod and the intense lobster raviolo. They promise the kind of first- rate experience that only Lincoln’s prices now suggest. Rating: **

The Bloomberg Questions

Prices: About $150 per person.

Sound Level: Moderate, rarely above 70 decibels.

Date Place: Yes; great views.

Inside tip: Solid, albeit pricey tripe at $18.

Special Feature: Many wines on the heavily Italian list under $60.

Will I be back: For the awesome, if exorbitantly pricey, raviolo.

Lincoln is at 142 W. 65th St. Information: +1-212-359-6500 or http://www.lincolnristorante.com.


What the Stars Mean:

****         Incomparable food, service, ambience.
***          First-class of its kind.
**           Good, reliable.
*            Fair.
(No stars)   Poor.

Sound-Level Chart (in decibels):

51 to 55: Church on a weekday. 56 to 60: The vegetable aisle at the Food Emporium. 61 to 65: Keyboards clacking at the office. 66 to 70: My alarm clock when it goes off inches from my ear. 71 to 75: Corner deli at lunchtime. 76 to 80: Back of a taxi with advertisements at full volume. 81 to 85: Loud, crowded subway with announcements.

(Ryan Sutton writes about New York City restaurants for Muse, the arts and leisure section of Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer of this column: Ryan Sutton in New York at rsutton1@bloomberg.net or qualityrye on http://twitter.com/qualityrye

To contact the editor responsible for this story: Manuela Hoelterhoff at mhoelterhoff@bloomberg.net.

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