Chef Bruno Loubet Concocts Classy Feasts at London Bistrot
Bruno Loubet at his new restaurant in London. The French-born chef has returned to the U.K. after almost a decade in Australia. Source: Network London PR via Bloomberg
Feb. 12 (Bloomberg) -- Bruno Loubet, the French-born chef who was at the forefront of London eating in the 1990s, talks about his return to the city and the opening of the Bistro Bruno Loubet later this month. Bloomberg's Andrea Catherwood also speaks. (Source: Bloomberg)
The dining room at Bistrot Bruno Loubet, in East London. French-born Loubet has returned to the U.K. after almost a decade in Australia. Source: Network London PR via Bloomberg
A leading chef leaves London, moves to Australia for almost a decade and then comes back.
Cooking has changed and the restaurant scene moved on. Will his return produce the gourmet equivalent of fatted calf or will he serve up a slice of dining history with a swoosh on your plate and an overblown Chardonnay in your glass?
Fortunately, Bruno Loubet, 48, is an individualist whose cooking is only loosely allied to culinary fashions. His 1990s success with restaurants such as L’Odeon was based on his ability to set rather than follow trends, and he hasn’t lost his touch on the smaller stage of Bistrot Bruno Loubet.
The menu shows his classical French training, yet is not constrained by it. Loubet was born in Libourne, Bordeaux, and attended the Lycee Hotelier de Talence. He worked for Pierre Koffmann at La Tante Claire and for Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons before joining forces with Oliver Peyton and assuming responsibility for several restaurants, including Atlantic Bar and Grill, one of the hottest venues of its time.
Onion Raviolo
Bruno Loubet offers brasserie fare, not necessarily as we know it. Hare Royale, for example -- a restaurant dish -- comes topped with an onion raviolo and is served with pumpkin and dried mandarin puree.
(The hare is so beautiful and intense, I’d be happy not to bother balancing it with the puree. Still, there’s no questioning the thought that has gone into the dish.)
Onion-and-cider soup, deep and full of flavor, comes with an upside-down Emmenthal souffle. The confit lamb shoulder, another rich option, is accompanied by white beans and preserved lemon with harissa that’s green, not the usual red.
The desserts are as good as anything else on the menu, which is a challenge because the portions are generous and the unprepared may struggle. The Valrhona chocolate tartlet with caramel and salted-butter ice cream is surprisingly light, or how about the lemon creme brulee with jasmine-tea sorbet?
Loubet works day and night. You can spot him in the open kitchen when you visit and he sometimes sleeps on the premises because there is so much to do. He’s an old-fashioned chef producing modern food and Bistrot Bruno Loubet is buzzing.
Bistrot Bruno Loubet, the Zetter, 86-88 Clerkenwell Road, London, EC1M 5RJ. Tel. +44-20-7324-4455 or click on http://www.thezetter.com/en/Restaurant.
The Bloomberg Questions
Cost? Starters are 6.50-8 pounds; mains 14-18 pounds. Sound level? Acceptable -- about 75 decibels when busy. Inside tip? Try to leave room for the desserts. Special feature? Star chef’s return. Will I be back? Frequently. Date place? Yes. Rating? ***
What the Stars Mean **** Incomparable food, service, ambience *** First-class of its kind. ** Good, reliable. * Fair. 0 (no stars) Poor.
(Richard Vines is the chief food critic for Bloomberg News. Opinions expressed are his own.)
To contact the writer on the story: Richard Vines in London at rvines@bloomberg.net.
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