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Breggo Cellars: California Gold

The new frontier for California, at least north of Napa and Sonoma, is the Anderson Valley. One of the best discoveries I have made recently is Breggo Cellars, where winemaker and co-proprietor Doug Stewart is producing some excellent whites as well as gorgeous pinot noirs.


2006 Chardonnay Savoy Vineyard. Made as if it were a French chablis, this cuvée offers notes of lemon blossoms as well as white peaches and other stone fruits. No wood is evident in this medium- to full-bodied effort that has crisp acidity and a refreshing, pure style. Drink from now to 2011. $40


2006 Gewürztraminer. Breggo's 2006 gewürztraminer is the real deal. A huge nose of intoxicatingly peppery, spicy aromas mixed with lychee nuts and apricots soars from a glass of this beauty. With terrific fruit, medium to full body, and a dry, long finish, it is best drunk over the next several years. $25


2006 Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard. Exhibits sweet notes of raspberries, spring flowers, cherries, and strawberries. This subtly smoky/forest-floor-flavored pinot noir is made in a medium-bodied, feminine, elegant style. Enjoy over the next four to five years. $55


2006 Pinot Gris Wiley Vineyard. The finest pinot gris I have ever tasted from the New World. It offers a lovely perfume of apple skins, poached pears, nectarines, and lemon blossoms. Rich, zesty, and pure. Enjoy over the next to two years. $25


2006 Sauvignon Blanc Ferrington Vineyard. This wine offers aromas of honeyed melons, lemon oil, and other citrus. Dry and medium-bodied, with superb fruit, depth, and richness, this is a provocative expression of dry sauvignon to drink over the next two to three years. $25

Wines rated from 96-100 are extraordinary; 90-95, excellent; 80-89, above average to very good.

Robert Parker is the world's most influential wine critic. Visit to see tens of thousands of tasting notes, buy his books, or subscribe to his newsletter, The Wine Advocate.

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