Nick Passmore: Wine of the Week
The Other Pinot ... Gris, That Is
Its original home is in the Alsace region of northeast France but it is grown successfully in the New World as well, so this week and next I am pairing two versions, the first from Alsace and the second from California.
The Lucien Albrecht Pinot Gris Reserve Romanus 2008 ($20) is named for one Romanus Albrecht who started making wine in the town of Thann near the Swiss border in 1425. The family must be doing something right because after one move, in 1698 to nearby Orschwir, an event following which the company literature claims, the "modern" era began, they are still making superb wines. I am particularly enamored by the Pinot Noir Amplus—yes, a pinot noir from Alsace.
But back to the wine at hand—and, yes, I am pleased to report that there is a glass at hand as I write. This beautiful pinot gris has a delicate, ethereal quality to it, with pretty floral notes and pronounced citrus elements.
It is a young wine and evolved quite noticeably in the glass over an hour or so, showing as it did the apparently contradictory nature of this intriguing grape; the yin and yang of its feminine delicacy matched by its far from obvious yet nonetheless very real assertive strength. So make no mistake, despite its pleasing approachability, this is no wimpy white here.
When to Drink: Now, and for the next year or so.
Breathing/Decanting: Yes, one hour helps.
Food Pairing: A perfect choice with Southeast Asian food.
Grapes: 100% pinot gris
Web Site: lucien-albrecht.com
See more wines at nickonwine.com.