Nov. 18 (Bloomberg) -- When a chef known for fancy fare cooks casual, diners still expect something exceptional. Unless they're eating at Secession, David Bouley's new brasserie in Manhattan's Tribeca neighborhood. It replaces Danube, his high- end homage to Austria.

It's been a good year for designer food at off-the-rack prices. Daniel Boulud gave us stunning $13 charcuterie when he opened Bar Boulud in January. Jean-Georges Vongerichten gave us some of the city's best soba for $14 a plate when Matsugen debuted this summer. Compare that to the $140-plus menus both chefs offer at their flagships.

The American-born Bouley, who charges $95 for a tasting menu at his eponymous French restaurant, serves $11 terrines, $10 onion soup and $22 risotto at Secession. The comparatively moderate price points are appropriate given the venue is one letter off from ``recession'' and rhymes with ``depression.''

But those discounts are relative. The terrines were cold as ice, as if they'd just been thawed. Sweetbread and liver versions were coarse as sand. Lobster risotto was mushy as rice pudding.

Mediocre food, regardless of the price, can feel like a rip- off. And as New Yorkers hunt for value amid the economic turbulence, it's hard to understand why they'd eat here when better bistro classics are available at Balthazar and elsewhere.

A red-wine poached egg over greens tasted like any other generic salad; no better was $21 pasta carbonara with soggy pancetta.

Can't Eat Decor

There is good news. Secession's a looker: The huge Gustav Klimt-inspired murals from the old Danube remain on the soaring walls. A dark red lounge houses tables too low for eating.

Service was spotty -- comparable to recent experiences I've had at Bouley Upstairs -- the chef's other casual venue. On one visit, we waited 25 minutes for our reserved table. On another, servers didn't clear our desserts until after we paid the check and left. Entrees arrived while appetizers were still on the table. Spoons were dirty.

Items might not fit the menu description: Lobster quiche offered no evidence of egg -- the signature ingredient in quiche. Pot de creme, traditionally a custard, looked like whipped cream.

That's not to say everything is bad at Secession. In fact, a number of dishes are quite good. But good luck finding them on the poster-size menu with 70 items.

The Lottery

Sometimes there are hints. The roast chicken is captioned ``New York Times No. 1 Winner.'' Tacky. But the bird's breast is tasty and juicy -- almost buttery. Just eat around the fatty, uncrisped skin.

Sometimes you have to guess. Onion soup was terrible, thin and heavily underseasoned. Coconut soup was much better, pleasantly sour and garlicky. Fish soup was the best; the creamy saffron broth, intoxicating.

A mound of Dungeness crab had no fillers. Just pure crustacean and black truffle. It glistened. It smelled like perfume. It tasted like candy. Just $10. Oysters are about $2 each -- uncommon in a city of $3 bivalves. The fresh Blue Points don't taste any less fresh for the discount.

Wiener schnitzel was remarkable for its relative greaselessness. Steak tartare was cold and tangy. Eat baby goat with your hands: Pick up the bones and pull off the soft meat. A Delmonico steak was juicy and rare and covered in mushrooms. Finish with Mirabelle plum sorbet.

Rating: *

The Bloomberg Questions

Cost? Nothing over $34.

Sound level? Bustling.

Date place? Only if your date likes to wait at the bar.

Inside tip? Ideal meal is cheap Blue Point oysters, heady fish soup, rare Delmonico steak.

Special feature? Great sparkling wine for $12 a glass.

Private room? Yes.

Will I be back? For the shellfish.

Secession is at 30 Hudson St. at Duane Street. Information: +1-212-791-3771.

What the Stars Mean:
****         Incomparable food, service, ambience.
***          First-class of its kind.
**           Good, reliable.
*            Fair
No stars     Poor.

(Ryan Sutton writes about New York City restaurants for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer of this column: Ryan Sutton in New York at rsutton1@bloomberg.net.

Last Updated: November 18, 2008 00:01 EST