Aug. 26 (Bloomberg) -- Michael White is the demon chef of Tudor City. Convivio is his den of butchery, his restaurant inside a Gothic tower. You think you'll be ordering classic macaroni. Then you see a menu filled with pig's face and feet, cow's stomach, sea urchin gonads and bloody pigeon.

Timid types can get cavatelli. It's baked with goat.

Welcome to Manhattan's most exciting southern Italian joint. It's a logical counterpoint to Alto, an esteemed northern Italian joint where White also cooks. The cost? $59 for four courses.

Offal and affordable prices are a sign of the culinary times and the teetering economy. Don't be scared of the headcheese. The pork flavor is mild. The fat jiggles and dissolves like Jell-O. Watermelon rind sits atop, for a hint of pucker and a whisper of fruit. Rustic bread gives crunch. Magnificent.

Filet mignon is out. Funky flat-iron steak is in. The American Wagyu is charred black but rare within. Tomatoes cut the richness; pecorino does the opposite. It's pizzaiola, an adopted American classic, flaunting its humble roots in an Armani suit.

And that suit is on sale. White's menu used to be $64. That's when the venue was still called L'Impero (The Empire), quite a name for a restaurant opposite the United Nations.

The space closed down for a two-week makeover and reopened in July as Convivio (a tad less bellicose). Southern Italy became the focus and the dining room stopped looking like a 1970s wedding reception. Gray swivel seats and red banquettes replaced your grandma's teal chairs.

Pinstripe Pain

But if fanciness is gone, formality remains: Expect carpets, curtains, tablecloths, men in jackets and women in dresses. Too stuffy? Sit at the bar; the television there plays sports. Watch the Yankees self-destruct while you self-medicate with an excellent daiquiri (made with Zacapa 23-year-old rum).

Start with a bitter icicle radish. Dunk it in sweet anchovy cream. Spread warm burrata and tomatoes over bread -- an ad hoc pizza. Spoon charred corn and salty ricotta salata into your mouth. Repeat.

Move on to antipasti. Octopus melts in the mouth like foie gras. Just a bit of brine. It sits atop polenta that actually tastes like corn. It's not the cheesy porridge that New Yorkers have accustomed themselves too (see Scarpetta).

Pig's feet were mostly fat -- good fat, the kind that melts in the mouth. The tasty blubber enriches a plate of Contrones.

That's right. You're eating pork and beans.

More Cholesterol, Please

Fresh pastas boast an al dente respect for the macaroni. The intense flavors stay with you for days. A slick of hot pecorino coats firm ravioli. What's inside? Cured pork jowl. Eat the dumpling whole or purse your lips and suck out the sweet flesh. Want something lighter? Noodles encase a mess of meaty tuna. Lemon offsets the oceanic aroma. White's dense gnocchetti with sea urchin could be nature's best foil for crab.

Fusilli lie in a stew of pork shoulder. That would be enough for most chefs. Not White. A waiter pours a carafe of melted cheese into the mix. Whew. Tripe (tastes like a clean sponge) salvaged my overcooked orecchiette.

Entrees are often a letdown following life-changing pastas. That's not the case here. Just avoid the fried swordfish roll with pecorino. It tastes like a Filet-O-Fish gone wrong. Get the baked turbot instead. Sure, it's a tad underseasoned, but that's fine when each bite tastes of sweet olive oil.

I hate pigeons on my balcony. That's why I love them on my plate. Enter the squab. A pool of citrus tempers the crimson, faintly livery flesh. Others will opt for the competent lamb and fatty, juicy, rosemary infused pork chop.

Finish with the organ-free ricotta dumplings.

Rating: ***

The Bloomberg Questions

Cost? Four-course prix fixe is $59; a la carte available.

Sound level? Bustling but not loud.

Date place? Definitely because it won't bankrupt you.

Inside tip? Watch sports on the bar television.

Special feature? Tudor City is a cul-de-sac. That means few cars, quiet sidewalks, and therefore stellar outdoor seating.

Private room? Yes.

Will I be back? Find me at the bar.

Convivio is at 45 Tudor City Place. Information: +1-212-599-5045; http://www.convivionyc.com.

What the Stars Mean:
****         Incomparable food, service, ambience.
***          First-class of its kind.
**           Good, reliable.
*            Fair
No stars     Poor.

(Ryan Sutton writes about New York City restaurants for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer of this review: Ryan Sutton in New York at rsutton1@bloomberg.net.

Last Updated: August 26, 2008 00:01 EDT