(Corrects private-room information in story published Oct. 14)

Oct. 14 (Bloomberg) -- Juliette Lewis, the star of ``Natural Born Killers,'' waited to eat at a packed Freemans last week. No bar seats magically appeared. No artichoke dip was sent out compliments of the kitchen. No spare tables were brought into service. She stood with a drink in her hand like everyone else.

Such celebrity indifference wouldn't fly in Los Angeles. Alas, this is Manhattan's Lower East Side, where indifference is a way of life. Or at least feigned indifference: Lewis and a companion seemed to wait about 20 minutes for their table.

I waited an hour and a half.

The brainchild of Taavo Somer and William Tigertt, Freemans opened in 2004. The cult eatery lies at the end of a faux seedy alley off Rivington Street. No sign in front. Looks like a converted garage from the outside, an urban hunting lodge from the inside -- an effort in studied informality and ubiquitous taxidermy.

A-listers and everyone else pack the darkly lit digs for Stilton-stuffed prunes (supermarket quality) and stuffed animals (a dead goose hangs from a wall, wings spread in attack mode). It's like the Waverly Inn designed with Sarah Palin in mind.

Dinner is cheap -- $100 or less for two. More money can be spent nearby. A store called Freemans Sporting Club outside the alley and under the same ownership sells made-to-measure suits for $3,000 and haircuts for $40 (a shave is an extra $35).

In other words, it's not all about the food. But with the economy tanking, a venue that clocks 90-minute waits and serves Depression-style cheddar toast warrants scrutiny -- especially when a chef trained in four-star kitchens is now overcooking the macaroni and cheese.

New Chef

His name is Michael Citarella and he used to work for Gray Kunz at the erstwhile Cafe Gray and Lespinasse. A sampling of Citarella's fare proves that Freemans has finally become a bona fide gastropub -- most of the time.

That cheddar toast was crunchy, sharp and just $6. A holdover from the old menu, it's the type of dish you could make at home with little effort. The quail is new -- not something you'd make at home. It was rare, with a hint of maple on the skin. The bird sits over intensely corny grits. Delicious. Or how about slow-roasted pork shoulder? Expect crispy burnt ends, soft flesh and silky fat. Cabbage cuts the richness with a fragrant sourness; red mustard and smoked paprika add warmth.

And yes, the dip was good. It's a casserole of artichokes with Parmesan and mayo. If kids ate their vegetables like this, America would be even fatter. Chicken liver crostini was everything it should be: funky, smooth and salty.

Lumberjack Chic

The crowd mirrors a Budweiser commercial. The unofficial dress code for men is lumberjack: full beard plus a plaid shirt (available for $148 in the store). Women wear dresses. Saturday Night Live's Andy Samberg looked like Paul Bunyan. Fashion heiress Margherita Missoni appeared ready for a magazine shoot.

No reservations for parties under six. Or so we're told. Missoni and her friends didn't appear to wait. Good thing she got a terrible table by the kitchen. Watch these maneuvers from the bar with excellent cocktails. A Mexican Firing Squad balances tequila, grenadine and bitters with aplomb.

Striped bass glistened. A stew of eggplant added sweetness; olives added salt. Grilled trout flaked with ease and exuded the smoky char of the grill.

Fried eggs topped tender brisket. Filet mignon was well- marbled and rare throughout. Horseradish gave it a kick. Lamb stew? Sure. Heady, gamy meat collapsed with little resistance. Doughy dumplings allowed mopping up of sauce. Parsnip soup was earthy, lemony. Skip the bland chicken, dry rabbit and overcooked burger. Finish with cinnamon ice cream.

Rating: **

The Bloomberg Questions

Cost? Appetizers are about $10; entrees, $20.

Sound level? Oddly, never too loud.

Date place? Yes.

Inside tip: If the front bar area is packed, try the quieter back bar.

Special feature? Great cocktails.

Private room? Yes.

Will I be back? You betcha.

Freemans is at the end of Freeman Alley, off Rivington Street. Information: +1-212-420-0012 or http://www.freemansrestaurant.com/.

What the Stars Mean:
****         Incomparable food, service, ambience.
***          First-class of its kind.
**           Good, reliable.
*            Fair
No stars     Poor.

(Ryan Sutton writes about New York City restaurants for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer of this column: Ryan Sutton in New York at rsutton1@bloomberg.net.

Last Updated: October 15, 2008 11:43 EDT