April 15 (Bloomberg) -- Gordon Ramsay, the British chef who stars in TV shows such as ``Hell's Kitchen'' and ``Kitchen Nightmares,'' didn't make quite the splash he'd hoped for when he opened his first New York restaurant at the Midtown hotel the London late in 2006.

The reviews were tepid and he was thrown onto the defensive, changing his head chef and admitting he had had a rocky start.

So how are Gordon Ramsay at the London and its younger sister Maze doing more than a year on? The answer is: very well indeed.

Before I start, I should say this is the 10th Ramsay venue I've reviewed. My name, phone numbers, pseudonyms and face are known by the group, and I got a tour of the kitchens and copies of the menus without asking. When I dined at Maze in London earlier this year, I was greeted by my pseudonym as I walked in the door. So there's no point in claiming I'm able to review anonymously.

Maze is the group's greatest creation. It started as a single eatery under chef Jason Atherton next to the U.S. embassy in London before adding branches in New York and Prague. The menu consists of tapas-sized plates of modern French food with Japanese influences. Each dish looks exquisite and punches above its weight in terms of freshness and flavor.

The menu in New York is similar to the London original, yet with distinctive dishes such as my own favorite, a deconstructed BLT ($13). This is served in a chilled martini glass, with a set tomato consomme, bacon and onion cream, garnished with crispy bacon and onion rings and finished with a lettuce veloute.

Mini-Me Dishes

The BLT works both as a witty take on an American classic and as a dish in its own right, with several layers of flavor and an attractive presentation. Much the same is true of other options, including hand-dived sea scallops roasted with spices, golden raisin puree and cauliflower beignets. These Mini-Me distillations must be faultless in conception and execution.

Maze by Gordon Ramsay, to give this eatery its full name, does just that, using great ingredients including Maine lobster and inventively matching flavors, such as serving roasted veal sweetbreads with sauteed baby shiitake and toasted almonds.

Don't even get me started on desserts such as Valrhona chocolate fondant, green cardamom caramel, sea salt and almond ice cream, or vanilla creme brulee with mascarpone and plum ice cream. The wine selection is good, too, including plenty of American options, and a friendly and knowledgeable sommelier to guide you through them.

The only thing I didn't like about Maze is that it doubles as a bar and as the anteroom to Gordon Ramsay at the London, so other diners come walking through.

Diner-Style Chrome

There are tantalizing glimpses of that restaurant. The designs are as exciting as you might expect from David Collins, the Irish-born architect whose credits include Madonna's bedroom, Victoria's Secret stores and several London eateries, including Gordon Ramsay.

He's given the London and its dining rooms a wonderful art- deco look. Maze features gray banquettes and an abundance of chrome, a sophisticated take on the American diner. The formal restaurant next door is more classic and depends on subtle lighting to compensate for a shortage of natural light.

The menu here -- under chef de cuisine Josh Emett -- is pure Ramsay, featuring classics such as ravioli of tiger prawn poached in its own bouillon with fennel cream, shellfish vinaigrette and chervil veloute. And what's not to like about dishes such as venison roasted in cocoa butter, braised red cabbage, pomme fondant and bitter chocolate sauce? The food and service were faultless.

Bargain Lunch

I'm more excited by Maze -- and by Ramsay's pubs and other midrange eateries -- than by the chef's fine-dining restaurants, where the dishes, service and decor follow a pattern. Such venues are consistent yet predictable. Still, the set lunch is a steal at $45 for three courses, with an optional $25 for paired wines.

Gordon Ramsay is similar to the chef's three-star flagship restaurant in the U.K., where lunch is 45 pounds ($89). For all his fiery temper, Ramsay may not have set New York alight, but Maze is an exciting eatery and Gordon Ramsay at the London holds its own against the city's other top-end restaurants. You can swear by it.

Gordon Ramsay and Maze are both at the London hotel, 151 W. 54th St. Information: +1-212-468-8888 (Gordon Ramsay), +1-212-468-8889 (Maze); http://www.gordonramsay.com/usrestaurants.

The Bloomberg Questions

Cost? Three-course lunch is $45 at Ramsay, $35 at Maze.

Sound level? Quiet at Ramsay, buzzier at Maze.

Date places? Yes.

Inside tip? Try for the chef's table at Ramsay.

Special feature? Wines are stored in EuroCave cabinets.

Private room? Private dining on the second floor.

Will I be back? Yes.

Rating? ***

What the Stars Mean
****         Incomparable food, service, ambience.
***          First-class of its kind.
**           Good, reliable.
*            Fair.
0 (no stars) Poor.

(Richard Vines is London food critic for Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are his own.)

To contact the writer of this review: Richard Vines in London at rvines@bloomberg.net.

Last Updated: April 15, 2008 00:01 EDT